Started by glgdiggs on Sawmills and Milling. Started by gdingee on Sawmills and Milling. Welcome, Guest. Please login or register. Send this topic Print. Pages: [ 1 ] Go Down. Author Topic: What you recommend 30 or 10 degree sharpening Read times. I have one confused question when it comes to sharping a chain. I have bought a new chain, I was reading the instruction that came with chain it says this chain has been sharpend to 35 degree. I have read in the forum that 10 degree sharpening is perfect for chainsaw milling.
The question do we have to sharpen our chain according to the manufacture original sharping or just do it our way is 10 degree sharping for milling which method will be correct.
What is the number and lettering of the new chain? Most standard chain is sharpened at degrees for crosscutting wood and for ripping with the grain it's best to use 10 degrees. So if you are cutting with the grain, you should be using 10 degree sharpened chain. They do make ripping chain that comes sharpened at 10 degrees for cutting with the grain of a log.
Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway. I still use 10 degree chain when do some firewood splitting with the grain as the chain runs much cooler. I have used 10 deg for crosscutting, and I thought it seemed to stay sharper longer.
LT10G10, Stihl Magnum, many woodworking tools. Currently a farm service applicator, trying to find time to saw! It depends highly on what species and cutting conditions you're running in. The Bailey's chain is the standard Granberg-style ripping chain which set the standard back in the '70's. I've heard of guys ripping softwoods with a square-ground chisel chain with a 22 degree top plate angle.
Most of the hardwood milling I've been around was done with the ripping chain that has the clearing cutters sharpened at 10 x 10 degrees and the scoring cutters sharpened at 0 x 0. After two or three strokes of the file, check how much material has been removed.
If the surface looks uniform, your filing action is correct. If there are still patches of color in places, check that you are using the right file and make sure you are not holding the file too high or too low. The depth gauge setting may be increased by up to 0. The filing gauge for the next chain pitch up may be used for this purpose. Never continue working with the chain until it is completely dull. A few strokes of the file at regular intervals quickly restores full sharpness.
Count the number of file strokes and use the same number on each cutter to obtain cutters of identical length. If you find that the cutters in one row are shorter than those in the other row, you have used more pressure while filing the row concerned. Correct the length of the cutters by performing one or two strokes of the file on the longer cutters.. Become a fan of: Youtube Channel. KG, D Waiblingen. I wont do 30 on top anymore ,chain is too fragile on the outer corner , still cuts softwoods fine and stays sharp longer ,look at an off the roll rslf they are close to degrees at least the.
Khntr85 , Cracker Boy , Dub11 and 4 others like this. RI Chevy and Khntr85 like this. Wolverine , Jul 6, Man that stuff makes me hungry!!! And u?? Just trying to keep my head above water Part 1 So, there are really 3 key angles when sharpening: 'A' is the 'Top Plate Filing Angle' typically 25 to 35 degrees. This makes a compound bevel in the top plate cutting edge. Called 'down angle' as you lower the file handle down to do this when filing from the inside-out.
We can get into all types of weird geometry here cord angle of the file diameter , and confusing measurements, since there are few 90 degree angles on a cutter; the guide bars are crowned, not flat; it is a different angle if measured at the inside or outside edge 60 degree inside angle may measure 80 degrees at outside edge ; etc.
Don't forget to add in the depth gauge offset typically 0. Part 2 As noted, some sets of angles will cut faster, but dull faster racing chains versus fire wood chains. Some angles will cut better in different species of wood soft wood versus hard wood. Even the power of the saw is a factor: a higher powered saw may be able to pull an aggressively filed chain in a way that a more modest powered saw can not.
Part 3 I have had a few factory reps tell me that the 'recommended angles' are intended for a general audience. While it is possible to optimize a chain to fit specific cutting situations, the manufacturers pick the 'best all around' settings for 'general use'. So, if you are able to sharpen your chains accurately and consistently , you should think of the recomended angle settings as 'starting points'. For many users, that is good enough. If you live on an oak plantation, and only cut red oak, it makes sense to try and optimize your chains for red oak.
Same thing if you live on a Christmas tree farm. If you never know what you are going to cut firewood scrounging, storm clean up, etc. Maybe try different angles with different brands of chains, or different saws. Some guys are stuck in a ' one-chain-on-one-saw ' mindset, filing on the bar, and using a chain up before removing it. Choose what you need for the task at hand. You can have a bunch of different chains sharpened for different wood or cutting conditions full chisel, semi-chisel, chipper, low kickback, etc.
If you prefer a golf analogy, approach each tree like a hole on the course, and select the appropriate powerhead, guide bar, and chain for the shot! Part 4 In summary, don't sweat a few degrees that most guys probably can't measure very accurately anyways.
Focus on getting each edge on each cutter sharp, and getting each cutter on a loop the same. If you deviate from the manufacturers' recommended angles, do it intentionally, and not due to lack of control. File guides and grinders help in this regard. Last edited: Jul 7,
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